We have selected our most asked questions to help people understand their system more thoroughly:
Q. How long does a unit last?
A. Equipment has a History, Depending on the date of manufacture, the quality of the equipment varied. Gravity types and floor furnaces seam to last the longest due to the lack of moving parts. They usually last 50-60 years. Forced air furnaces now have had a 15-18 year life expectancy. Air conditioners usually last 15-20 years. After these units get old they start to require many repairs.
Q.Is the unit worth repairing or should it be replaced?
A. If the system had been kept clean, the unit might be worth repairing. The extra cost to clean up an old furnace might make it too expensive, then replacement would be more practical.
Q. How often should I change the air filter?
A. Most people are only using the standard fiberglass filters. These are not recommended to be used because they have only have less than <2% efficiency. These will damage the system. The filter company prints "Change every 30 days". These are less than <2%efficient and are not designed to be used with any air conditioning systems. A better type of filter is the 1” thick HEPA style. These HEPA types stop more dirt and clog up quicker, which needs to be changed often. Usually every 2-3 months.
Q. I am seeing black (or brown) streaks on my wall around the vents, what does that indicate?
A. One of the causes could be from a crack in the firbox inside your furnace. This can be a very dangerous Carbon Monoxide leakage from the carbon by-product omited from the burners. This will poison the air and can be deadly. The system should be shut off and thoroughly tested for safety.
Another cause could be the dusty dirty air in the space. A filter system would help.
Q. I had the gas company check the furnace is that enough service?
A. The Gas Company checks to be sure the furnace is operating properly but does not “service” the components in the furnace. A Gas Co. check-up could alert you to a serious problem. If the gas company feels there is a problem, they will 'Red Tag' the unit. They will refer it to a Heating Agency. Having a thorough examination sometimes requires the system to be disassembled which the Gas Co. will not do.
Q. I can smell the furnace getting warm, how can I stop the smell?
A. The smell is the ‘Dirt’ burning off the heat exchanger. Since the filter couldn’t stop the dead skin cells, they settle on the firebox and burn off on each usage. Improve the filtration system and clean out the system, this will remove most of the odors.
Q. How often does my system need serviced?
A. Have your system serviced by a well trained ‘NATE’ Certified Technician at the beginning of each season to insure your equipment is operating properly. A small problem can develop into a major breakdown like a blown compressor or expensive motor repair if not caught early enough. Usually the system eats up electricity long before it breaks down totally.
Q. My fan (or unit) is running constantly, how can I turn it off?
A. Usually people confuse the switch on the thermostat with ‘Auto’ or ‘On’ this only controls the fan and is normally left in the ‘Auto’ position so the fan will cycle automatically on-off. Placing the fan switch in the on position will keep the fan on constantly.
Another reason for the fan to be operating is a malfuntion of the electronics in the furnace on some model furnaces.
Q. How long do Carbon Monoxide (CO) detectors last before they are no longer able to sense the CO gasses?
A. The manufacturer usually estimate 2 years before the CO Detectors have dried up and need the ‘wicks’ renewed. The units need testing every year by a trained professional to insure they will function during an emergency.
Q. I pushed the test button on the CO detector and the horn blew, is it still active?
A. Not necessarily, This only tests the batteries not the sensors which are found internally. Our trained professionals can properly test the unit during your service check-up.
Q. Where should we place the carbon monoxide detector?
A. When the furnace is running it could leak Carbon Monoxide (CO) and the CO will rise to the highest level of the house. Placing the detector on the wall 4"-8” off the ceiling will quickly sense this hazard and sound the alarm. The exception to this is, CO is heavier than air, it will settle along the floor as it cools off. Placing a detector low off the floor will protect small children which sleeping on the floor. We recommend both locations in multiple areas of the house. We offer an excellent detectors with 5 year life expectancy.
Q. Are ‘Automatic Earthquake Safety Shut-off Valves’ on the gas line, really needed?
A. Who got out of bed during the last earthquake, to think about getting the wrench and shutting off the gas? Nobody! because this is not practical. Earthquakes come at the most inconvenient times and we have a lot of other things to be concerned with. Hidden gas lines can easily break and allow the build-up of gas. Until an open flame sparks set it off. You can lose your home and your life in just an instant. It’s not worth the risk. Los Angeles City is requiriing a shut-off valve installed whenever a house sells. Other cities are pushing to get this on their building requirements also.
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